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Buku The Most Spectacular Restaurant in the World by Tom Roston

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The Most Spectacular Restaurant in the World by Tom Roston

Author:Tom Roston

Language: eng

Format: epub

Publisher: Abrams

Published: 2019-09-10T00:00:00+00:00

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The Most Spectacular Restaurant in the World by Tom Roston

* * *

On Thanksgiving, Easter Sunday, Mother’s Day, and Christmas, the most popular days at the restaurant, Reiner would strongly consider following the early exits of the executive chefs who had preceded him, René and Boubée. He would get home and say to himself, “Tomorrow, I go to the old man [Alan Lewis] and I quit.”

The stress of managing the kitchen—not the actual cooking—was his and Müller’s responsibility. The chef de cuisine is deputized to work the line and oversee the actual, day-to-day cooking. The executives’ task was to oversee all of production, from food orders to personnel to writing menus. They came in early in the morning and worked for hours on the orders, with the assistance of a receiving steward. They had to know what was in the walk-ins and Central Services and what needed to be replenished. Future days’ menus also had to be anticipated.

 

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The Most Spectacular Restaurant in the World by Tom Roston

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The Most Spectacular Restaurant in the World by Tom Roston

Author:Tom Roston , Date: September 27, 2019

,Views: 128

Author:Tom Roston

Language: eng

Format: epub

Publisher: Abrams

Published: 2019-09-10T00:00:00+00:00
* * *

On Thanksgiving, Easter Sunday, Mother’s Day, and Christmas, the most popular days at the restaurant, Reiner would strongly consider following the early exits of the executive chefs who had preceded him, René and Boubée. He would get home and say to himself, “Tomorrow, I go to the old man [Alan Lewis] and I quit.”

The stress of managing the kitchen—not the actual cooking—was his and Müller’s responsibility. The chef de cuisine is deputized to work the line and oversee the actual, day-to-day cooking. The executives’ task was to oversee all of production, from food orders to personnel to writing menus. They came in early in the morning and worked for hours on the orders, with the assistance of a receiving steward. They had to know what was in the walk-ins and Central Services and what needed to be replenished. Future days’ menus also had to be anticipated.

After several hours of paperwork and phone calls, Müller, the executive sous chef, would walk through the kitchen and make sure preparations were in order. Reiner would then go through and put his finger in the sauces and taste what he could. Although Reiner concedes he may have yelled at staff at times, he says he believed in proper business management and chain of command. If something was wrong, he would call over the sous chef, inform him, and let him tear into the staff if he needed to.

When lunch service began, the executive chefs would oversee expediting working the pass, the area between the kitchen and the front of the house where the waiters would relay the orders and pick up the food. Reiner was assisted by a steward, who made sure all the flatware and glasses and other essential elements of the service were properly in place. The chief steward and several assistants were always running from the butcher to the dishwashers to the back waiter, providing whatever was needed.

After lunch service was completed, Reiner would have lunch, maybe some leftovers or a steak, with his chefs. And then there’d be a series of meetings covering the various banquets happening that week or handling staffing issues.

With dinner about to start, Reiner would check in on the fish butcher and also make sure essential prep tasks for the next day’s banquets, such as trimming the beef tenderloin for one hundred people, had been done. And then back to the pass for dinner service at 5:00. There were generally three seatings per table, and he made sure he was on hand at the beginning, because if the first seating got screwed up, then the rest of the night would be a disaster. As the waiters came to the pass with the order receipts, Reiner would call them out, saying, “Two steaks, both medium rare,” through a microphone so that everyone could hear him. No one talked in the kitchen. There was no music. Just the chopping, clanging, boiling sounds of cooking. Everyone had to be heads down, focused on the task assigned to him or her.

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